Watches 101

The study of horology (the art and science of measuring time)  is highly complex, but it doesn't have to be. Over the past week I have received lots of feedback asking for a post on watch lexicon as well as a visual diagram detailing the parts of a watch. With that being said, I hope this post serves as a baseline for all those interested in watches. Keep sending in suggestions, I truly appreciate the feedback.


            Watch Lexicon

Movement- The mechanism powering the watch, also known as "calibre."

Quartz Movement-  A type of watch movement that is powered by a battery. Typically, this kind of movement is the cheapest and most common movement found in watches.

Manual Movement-  A type of movement that needs to be wound in order to function. Sometimes this movement is also referred to as a "hand-wound movement." These types of watches need to be wound every 24-48 hours.

Automatic Movement- A type of movement that is "self-winding." The mechanism of the watch is powered through the movement of your wrist.

Power Reserve- The amount of time a particular watch mechanism can store before it needs to be wound again.

Example- A watch with 48 hour Power Reserve would need to be wound every two days.

Chronograph- A specific type of watch that is used as a stopwatch combined with a display watch.

Dial- The display of the watch otherwise known as the "face."

Subdial- A secondary dial set on the face of a watch. Usually seen on chronographs.

Date Window- The date display on the dial of the watch.

Crystal- "Crystal" can refer to a number of materials used to protect the dial such as sapphire. 

Bezel- Protective covering for the watch that holds the crystal in place. Bezels differ based on the type of watch.

Case- The outer shell of the watch that houses the watch's bezel, movement, and back.

Pusher- Button on the case of the watch that controls the chronograph function.

Lugs- A case attachment that connects the strap or bracelet to the case of the watch.

Crown- Connects the internal mechanism of the watch to the case. Generally used for setting time, date, and other functions. 


 

 Watch Diagram

Tag Heuer- "Don't Crack Under Pressure"

Recently, news broke that storied watch manufacturer Tag Heuer is taking a new approach to marketing. The new campaign, "Don't Crack Under Pressure" is geared at bringing more affordable timepieces into Tag Heuer's existing collections. Typically, timepieces in Tag Heuer's collection retail for around  $3,000-5,000 USD. With a limited number of in-house movements being produced by the brand, many watch enthusiasts scoff at the expensive price tag on fairly standard watch movements- think Ronda, Sellita, and ETA.

By all accounts it looks like Tag Heuer is trying to focus now on entry-level luxury watches ($1,000-3,000 USD). Ultimately, this shift is not completely unexpected. A look a recent history will show that more and more watch manufacturers are trying to court the entry-level luxury market. Swatch Group CEO Nicholas Hayek, announced in the late 2000's that Swatch would undertake a new initiative in the U.S. to open up more boutiques at Swatch's base and middle price range. The calculated move was the result of a number of factors more specifically, the fragmentation of the high-end luxury market as well as an overabundance of pre-fabricated movements.

What to Watch-

Time will tell whether or not the focus on the entry-level luxury market will pay off. Personally, I am surprised this shift did not take place earlier. It is hard to justify a few thousand dollar price difference between two watches that run on the same movement. Let's wait and see what happens.

 

Other Blogs to Visit

A look at some of the best watch blogs out there. 

1) Hodinkee

The name has become synonymous with horological news over the past few years. Great writing, and even better content, well worth your time. As a minor point of concern, the blog boasts an average reader who is 35 years old with a yearly household income of over $250,000. Patek isn't for everyone.

http://www.hodinkee.com/

2) Wound and Worn

Another great site, affordable watches and tons of reviews. If you are interested in boutique brands, check it out. 

http://wornandwound.com/

3) aBlogtoWatch

The cornerstone of the industry. Known for great reviews with a lot of variety. Also free monthly giveaways.

http://www.ablogtowatch.com/